Nothing you do or have done will ever compare to a trek across the wilderness of Sikkim. Your breath will be taken from you in each moment, literally and figuratively. Arguably the best trek in Sikkim is from Uttarey to Phoktey Dara, which skims along the Singalila Range of West Sikkim. It is not, however, for the faint of heart or the ill prepared. The trail is commonly used as a Sherpa route for transporting goods to the border military, but it’s a bit of a backwoods trail for tourism. Up until recently it was unexplored territory, vast and untouched. You can’t conquer this trail unless you follow the local Sherpas and become like one yourself.

The first step in the journey is to cross the Singshore Bridge near Pelling and continue on to a nights stay in Uttarey. There are a few guesthouses to rest up and get a good meal of local thali. While you prepare for the trek, you will want to store anything unneeded for your trip at the guesthouse. For this, you will want to bring along an extra duffle with a lock. The trek is intense and strenuous not to mention rustic, so you don’t want to carry any extra weight than you must. The Sherpas you hire will be in charge of carrying tents, food, and cooking supplies. You won’t have the opportunity to load them down with your extra luggage. If you choose to take on this exhilarating journey then you should already have the mindset to forgo such luxury. Allow yourself to be inspired by the strength and audacity of the locals, and try your best to imitate them.

Day 1: As you set out, breathe in deeply and easily. This is the lowest elevation you will be for almost a week. Take in the simple beauty of the quiet village of Uttarey with its pastures lined in bamboo fences. Since you will most likely meet your Sherpas at their homes, don’t be shy to set your pack down and ask for a quick cup of tea. Get to know the men who are guiding you, and trek easy knowing they are experts in what they do. After a quick break, hoist on your pack and get ready for the real fun to begin. The goal for day one is to reach Achalley (8500ft) before dusk. It is about 6km from the village and can take around 4 hours. Make sure to take breaks for water and snacks, but keep up the pace. You want to pitch your tents before the sun sets.

Day 2: Wake up early and grab a cup of sweet ginger tea. Find yourself a nice patch of grass to sit on and catch Khangchendzonga beaming in the morning sun. She will seem to be hiding a bit from you with closer hills shielding her full face, but continue onwards and upwards over the next few days to see her full glory revealed among her neighboring peaks. From this point there are two options: break up your trip to allow more time to rest and enjoy the journey while adding an extra day, or trek all the way to the highest point, which saves time but can be exhausting and even dangerous for those susceptible to altitude sickness. Let’s say you have means to take an extra day. On this day, your goal is to reach Karka Chowk, a scenic valley situated around 10,000ft with a babbling brook racing through the middle. There’s plenty of flat ground to pitch your tent and open space to wander around to take some great pictures. Also, this is a good place to fill up your water. Make sure to drink plenty to avoid dehydration. Eat a filling dinner and sleep early. Tomorrow will be the hardest day of the trek.

Day 3: Wear layers today that can easily be added and removed. Today you will reach the highest point of the trek, Kalizar at 11,000ft where there’s a fair chance of snow. Mentally prepare yourself to scale the side of a mountain, and let go of your fear of heights. Ask your Sherpa guides or tour guide to help you find a suitable bamboo stick to help with balance along the steep muddy path. As you climb higher and higher, take frequent breaks to drink plenty of water and catch your breath. Pushing yourself too hard too fast can make you vulnerable to altitude sickness. You must be completely aware of your own body as the Sherpas will not slow down or frequently watch out for you. If you feel at all dizzy, lightheaded, or short of breath, let your guide know immediately. Sit down and take deep breaths. What’s waiting ahead of you is so worth any pain or struggle you may face. Breathe in through your nose and out through your mouth and allow yourself to reach an almost meditative state. As you sweat under the weight of your pack and your lungs ache with the lack of oxygen, your body will begin to produce endorphins. Notice how you feel like a warrior, ready to take on whatever comes your way. Hope will rise up within you as you see the tree line along the ridge of the mountain. Snow may even sneer at you warning you to stay away, to be afraid. But, your spirit becomes unbreakable. Nothing can stop you if you press on in courage. This is the mindset you need to hold onto if you are going to conquer this mountain. There is one thin line of flat ground waiting for you at the top to place your tents. A few trees may shelter you from the blistering winds, but you may need to pitch out in the open. Set up camp quickly and eat some hot soup. Before you sleep, change out of sweat soaked clothing and grab your winter coat. It’s going to be a long, fitful night of sleep, but victory awaits you in the morning.