People from mainland India and abroad consider Mokokchung to be a great hill town perfect to rekindle with nature. Yes, it is a lovable place but the locals too crave something more scenic and less touristy. Mokokchung is ever-changing—what was once surrounded by trees and wooden houses is now transformed into a concrete jungle. This is the way of life, so we pick out a certain paradise and call it our refuge, and for me, it was Changki Village.
Before and after image of Aongza Ward of Mokokchung from my window
Prior to discovering the village, I had no idea about its hidden gem; I used to only see the main gate to the village every time I travelled from Mokokchung to Guwahati. The junction next to the Changki Village entry gate is often called the X-Junction because the roads open out to four destinations. One leads to Changki, the one opposite the village road leads to Mokokchung. The other two facing each other lead to Chungliyimsen Village and Assam.
My visit to Changki Village came as a surprise when my uncle who was posted there as the headmaster of a high school invited me over for the weekend. I used to get vertigo on the winding roads but throughout this trip I was overjoyed. My uncle told me exciting things like how I can see Mokokchung from the village. At night, Mokokchung appears to resemble Darjeeling with tiny twinkle lights and soothing weather during the evenings. Changki has one of the best sunsets in Nagaland.
Entry gate to Changki Village (left); one of the two cemeteries you will see on the way (right)
My first impression of Changki Village was amazing. I saw the youths of the village cleaning the cemetery; I have often noticed how people living in villages attend to their surroundings and make sure that not only is their home but also the entire village. I was surprised to see how people lived so close to the cemetery. I was scared at first but later that very cemetery became my favourite place where I could daydream.
Living in a village changes your perspective on how you have been living with your face constantly stuck to your phone or television. Village life is simple and harmonious. I would often sit on the balcony made of bamboo (machang) and watch the day go by or chat with my neighbor across each other’s windows. I saw weird insects during my stay in the village: one of my fascinating finds was Sphaerotheriida; a single human touch made the insect wrap itself into a hard shell.
One of my rare finds, Sphaerotheriida
Changki Village does not have much to see. It may not even have a proper hotel. It is just through word of mouth to find a homestay. Staying with a local is far better than a conventional hotel. The village has a guesthouse that my uncle had rented. It is owned by the village council and the church. Although I belong from Nagaland, I didn’t know much about the village lifestyle until I stayed in Changki. Mornings start at dawn and men and women are seen chatting in the kitchen or getting ready to fetch water from the water tank nearby.
On one of my excursions in Changki, I went to explore the place where the locals go to fetch water. It was a slippery beaten path with wild leaves growing on the sides of the muddy road. There was a woman filling water from a large rainwater tank. Upon asking her if this is where they collect water, she said yes. However, you can also collect water from a water spring, though it is quite far from the village.
Places to Visit in Changki
In terms of places to see, Changki View Point is a prominent place from where you can see stunning mountains, one layer to the next. One of my personal favourite spots as mentioned above is the cemetery. The village has two cemeteries. I like the one located in lower Changki beside the church shaped like a leaf. You get a panoramic view of the valley, locally called ‘Pani Kheti,’ which literally means water valley.
How to Reach Changki
If you want to explore Changki, you can cover it as a day trip from Mokokchung. The distance from Mokokchung to Changki (if the roads are opened and smooth) will take approximately 2 to 3 hours, covering a total of 40 km. If you plan to travel from Jorhat, Assam, it will take 3 to 4 hours covering almost 70 km.
Additional read:
Why you need to go to Mokokchung in Nagaland