Yaks at Changu Lake

An unruly yak at Tsomgo Lake- Did I survive the ride?

Author: Lily Shanker
Date: 2022-05-10

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It’s a cold day. The snow has already settled on the hilltops and the Himalayas are as usual standing grander than ever draped in a frosty white coat of ice. The only time they take on a different appearance is during sunrise when golden rays set the pinnacles ablaze. Tashi Viewpoint, which is a 10-min drive from MG Marg in Gangtok, is a great place to witness this spectacle. Trust me on this one, I’ve seen it after driving up to the viewpoint at 4:30 in the morning, and it’s just breathtaking. 

Although the temperature outside is hovering close to 4 degrees Celcius, with the piercing cold penetrating through 4 layers of my clothing, it’s a great day though for the yaks. They love the cold and snow, and they would prefer doing nothing more than being lazy and the younger ones playful. Talk about being playful, I should know best after my ordeal riding on one. More on that later.


YAK RIDES IN SIKKIM

So it’s been on my wish list to take a yak ride in Sikkim, and the only places to do yak safaris are at Tsomgo Lake in East Sikkim and Yumthang Valley in North Sikkim. 

You can see yaks grazing literally everywhere in north Sikkim and they can be found living at altitudes of upto 20,000 feet. The wild yaks generally have dark blackish to brown coats whereas the domesticated yaks have patches of brown.

 

The yaks that are kept for safaris are adorned with colourful horns and saddles, and as they walk, sweet tinkling can be heard from their neck bells. I decided to go on a yak ride at Tsongmo Lake where you can find at least 2 dozen of them patiently waiting beside the lake. 

A short ride costs around INR 450 and a full ride costs INR 700. The prices have hiked up quite a bit in the past year and I guess there’s nothing to do about it except think of it as a once-in-a-lifetime experience and just go for it. 

NOTHING WENT AS EXPECTED

It was time to choose the yak I wanted to sit on, and as I made my way down the line, my emotions went from pure excitement to downright fright. These bulky, sturdy creatures with their long, dense fur that hangs low below their bellies and sides, when standing up, can make you feel puny. If left unattended by the keeper, getting too close to them for a photo op can elicit an irritated grunt that can send you scampering for safety. 

Playing it safe, I chose a small one. She had cream-coloured curly hair on the top of her head (so endearing) and flecks of cream-coloured hair on her black fur coat. Her horns were covered in bright red threads and she had a matching red saddle too.  


Jhilmi, my pretty, unruly yak

Her owner led her by a rope tied to her nose ring and started my short ride up the lake. Just as luck would have it, 10 seconds into the ride, my young, playful yak decided she wasn’t in a mood to escort someone but would rather chat with her friends. So rather than walking straight down the road, she kept steering right towards the lake’s edge where her friends sat quietly awaiting their turn. Unable to comprehend this queer behaviour, I assumed she was cockeyed and was scared she would throw me into the lake. Panic-stricken, I begged the owner to stop and set me down but he would have none of it and decided to give me my money’s worth by continuing to cajole the yak in Nepali to walk straight and not frighten me. “Jhilmi, you’re scaring her. You can meet your friends later. Let’s just take her around for a bit without a fuss.” 

I had had enough though and eventually managed to convince the owner to turn around and get me down.

THE ONLY CLOSENESS I PREFER WITH YAKS

However short and frightful, I’m grateful for the experience, although I’ll now stick to only taking their pictures from afar. Give it a go and let not my experience deter you; mine was just too playful that day. 


Posing while keeping an eye out for any angry outbursts

YAKS ARE KEEPERS

  • Dairy products consumed from yaks include milk, butter, and cheese. You have to try butter tea, which is made with yak's milk.
  • Yak fur is an ethical and sustainable fibre and is warm and silky. Yak fibre is used to make blankets, ropes, and tents. The soft yak down is used to make yarn for clothing and accessories. 

Explore other activities in Sikkim

PACKAGES

Day trip to Tsomgo

Excursion to Tsomgo Lake and Zuluk

Scintillating North Sikkim

Homestay experience in North Sikkim 

Gangtok weekend package


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